Fundamental Textile Testing: Performance Testing

When it comes to making a quality commitment to customers, having your textiles function as marketed and as expected is crucial for ensuring customer satisfaction, safeguarding your brand reputation and remaining compliant with market regulations. This is especially important as consumer demand grows for functional clothing which uses garments with particular qualities and technological benefits. 

For this reason, brands around the world have been conducting performance testing of their functional and performance fabrics, such as waterproof clothing or sportswear, for decades as part of their quality control process. 

In the final of our three-part textile testing series, we take a look at textile testing in terms of some of the performance testing, covering: 

• Breathability
• Water repellency
• Antibacterial /Antifungal/Antiviral 
• UPF

Textile performance testing is largely used to ascertain proof of specific characteristics, proof of claims made and proof that textiles are fit for purpose. It can also provide an induction of the risk of product recalls due to misleading claims. Let’s have a look at each type of testing. 

Breathability

Applicable methods

Several methods available to measure this property can be divided into 3 main groups: 

• Upright cup test
• Inverted cup
• Ret

Aim

The ability of a fabric to absorb moisture and release it through the material itself, allowing it to ‘breathe’.

Property conferred mainly by:

• Fabric & garment construction
• Fibre or Fabric Finishing
• Specific materials used

Water Repellency

Applicable standards 

ISO 4920

Aim

Does the fabric resist surface wetting?

Property conferred mainly by:

• Fabric & garment construction
• Fibre or Fabric Finishing
• Specific materials used

Principle

A specified volume of water is sprayed on a test specimen that has been mounted on a ring and placed at an angle of 45°.

How is it measured?

The measurement, in this case, is a qualitative rating by comparing it with photographic standards. It does not evaluate or prevent the permeation of water.

Results interpretation

The rating goes from 0 to 5, with 0 being complete wetting of the specimen and 5 being no wetting of the specimen face. 

Antibacterial/Antifungal/Antiviral 

Some applicable standards

• ISO 18184
• AATCC 100
• ISO 20743

Aim

The fabric has properties allowing it to avoid the growth of microorganisms on its surface.

Property conferred mainly by:

• Fibre or Fabric Finishing
• Specific materials used

Principle

Evaluation of fabrics capacity to reduce or avoid the number of microorganisms or viruses.

How is it measured?

Plaque Forming Units (PFU) or Colony Forming Units (CFU)

Results interpretation

The lower the number of PFU/CFU, the more fabric capacity to reduce the number of infective agents. 

UPF

Example of applicable standards

• EN 13758

Aim

The fabric has properties that allow it to avoid UV radiation passing through the fabric.

Property conferred mainly by:

• Fabric & garment construction
• Colour
• Finishing

Principle

The UPF of textiles is determined from the total spectral transmittance of UV irradiance.

How is it measured?

The radiation transmitted through the fabric is measured and collected data is transformed into UPF Rating.

Results interpretation

• UPF 15-24 - Good (Blocking ≈ 93 – 95,9 % UV)
• UPF 25-39 – Very Good (Blocking ≈ 96,0 – 97,4 % UV)
• UPF 40-50+ - Excellent (Blocking ≈ 97,5 – 98+ % UV)

It is worth saying that, in the EU, any garment claiming to be UPF protective is deemed PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) and therefore needs to be compliant with Regulation (EC) 2016/425 on PPE and also needs to be CE Marked.

By conducting the textile performance tests above, you can gain a clear view of how fit for use your garments and apparel are.

Read part one and part two of our series now!

If you would like to know more about how our experts can help with this, get in touch today.