Cosmetics & Personal Care | Monthly bulletin | October 2023
Cosmetics Chemicals banned in California
A new law signed by Gov. Gavin Newsom will ban more than two dozen ingredients from cosmetics and other personal care products in California.
The ingredients — which can increase the risk of burns, cancer, birth defects, reproductive problems and more — are among 1,600 that already have been banned in other regions of the world. California is taking the lead among the states in trying to make personal care products safer.
Some of the 26 ingredients banned under the bill include are:
vinyl acetate, which is found in some nail polishes and helps bind them to nails;
anthraquinone, which is found in some hair-coloring products;
lilial, or lily aldehyde, which can be found in many popular brands of perfumes, shampoos, body washes and more.
The new law will take effect on Jan. 1, 2027, to give companies time to eliminate those ingredients from their products.
Our experts from Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal network will support companies in this transition by defining a testing plan strategy.
Rely on combined efficacy approaches: ex vivo, in vitro and clinical studies
Substantiate cosmetic claims with validated and innovative efficacy assays, characterize active ingredients, demonstrate efficacy of cosmetic formulations… our sales team is at your disposal to develop a personalised proposal for your needs, in close collaboration with our experts:
- Screening of bioactive ingredients
- Determining mechanism of action, proof-of-concept and biological pathways
- in vitro or ex vivo evaluation of cosmetic formulations before and/or in combination with clinical trials
Perpetual regulatory evolution of nanomaterials
Nanoparticles have always existed in the environment, and can be produced by volcanic activity, photosynthesis reactions or even combustion.
With their many advantages, nanoparticles have been used by man to create nanomaterials, defined as materials in which at least 50% of the particles in the size distribution are nanoparticles. These are used in a wide variety of products: medicines, electronic systems, foodstuffs, chemicals, sporting goods (golf clubs, for example), and cosmetics.
In the case of cosmetics, a nanomaterial is defined in Cosmetics Regulation n°1223/2009 as an insoluble or biopersistent material, intentionally manufactured and characterized by one or more external dimensions, or an internal structure, on a scale of 1 to 100 nm.
Nanomaterials may be used in cosmetic products, but only under conditions strictly defined by regulations to ensure their safe use for human health.
In particular, the nanomaterials authorized in the appendices to the Cosmetics Regulation are:
Carbon black as a colorant, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, Tris-Biphenyltriazine and Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol as ultraviolet filters.
In addition, since July 11, 2013, when a nanomaterial is used in a cosmetic product, the packaging of this product must state [nano] in the ingredients list, after the name of the ingredient.
After several years of monitoring nanomaterials in cosmetic products on the market, the DGCCRF and the ANSM published an information note on the definition of nanomaterials in cosmetics.
Following the revision of the definition of nanomaterial in the European Commission's recommendation of June 10, 2022, in February 2023 the DGCCRF updated the briefing note published in July 2021.
Main changes in this revision of the SCCS guide on the safety assessment of nanomaterials in cosmetics: new sections have been introduced, there is a new recommendation for a definition of nanomaterials, the key aspects triggering safety concerns about a nanomaterial have been included, other sections have been updated…
To give you a complete picture of current and future changes, our experts are on hand to help you through the various stages and next testing plans to be implemented.
