Cosmetics & Personal Care | Monthly bulletin | November 2024

Revolutionising SPF testing with Eurofins C&PC: Ethical and innovative solutions

Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is the leading environmental cause of skin damage, making sun protection a priority in the cosmetics industry. Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care is actively involved in advancing sun protection testing, particularly through its contribution to the development of alternative methods for SPF determination.

The Double Plate In-Vitro Method (ISO DIS 23675) is one such advancement, officially set for publication in January 2025. This method, which is already fully developed and operational in Eurofins C&PC laboratories, uses UVR transmittance spectroscopy to measure SPF through UV-transparent substrates.

Eurofins C&PC is also at the forefront of innovative approaches such as the Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy (HDRS, ISO DIS 23698) method. Thanks to the expertise of our laboratories, which have been instrumental in advancing this technique, we are well-equipped to assist you in understanding and applying HDRS for your sun protection needs.

With international experts in regions such as Australia, China, Europe and the USA, we are well equipped to guide you through the evolving regulatory landscape and provide state-of-the-art solutions for sun protection testing, ensuring diverse strategies tailored to your specific requirements.

Reinventing odour control: Eurofins C&PC, a pioneer in scientific and emotional innovation

Demand for natural, safe, and effective odour control products is surging. Eurofins C&PC stands out as a trusted partner, offering cutting-edge clinical testing to validate deodorants, antiperspirants, and fragrances across various formats (spray, roll-on, stick) and application areas (underarms, feet, scalp). Beyond technical validation, Eurofins C&PC explores the deep connection between body odour and emotions, unlocking new opportunities for the personal care industry.

Eurofins C&PC ensures product efficacy through tailored protocols, diverse test panels, and claims assessments for long-lasting effects, challenging conditions, sensitive skin, and microbiome compatibility. Our laboratories also analyse odour molecules and develop protocols for tough odours like smoke on hair.

Research with EMOSPIN highlights the emotional impact of odours, which convey non-verbal cues like health and attraction. Using tools like heart monitoring and facial analysis, Eurofins C&PC measures emotional responses, empowering brands to craft products that control odour while enhancing sensory and emotional well-being.

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Nitrosamines in cosmetics: Health risks, regulatory compliance, and innovative analytical solutions

According to Cosmetics Europe, nitrosamines - a group of compounds identified over a century ago -pose significant health concerns. These compounds are among the most studied carcinogens, with approximately 90% of tested nitrosamines proven carcinogenic across various animal species. Consequently, they are classified as carcinogenic to humans.

In cosmetics, trace amounts of nitrosamines can arise from specific ingredients or via nitrosation reactions involving precursors in the final product. Recognising these risks, the European Cosmetics Regulation addresses nitrosamines in Annex II and III of the Cosmetics Directive (76/768/EEC), ensuring stringent control over their presence in cosmetic formulations.

At Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care, we understand the challenges posed by regulatory frameworks and the complexities of cosmetic matrices. In response, our experts have developed multiple methods to accurately detect a wide range of nitrosamines in diverse product types. To enhance our capabilities, we have acquired the Nitrogen Chemiluminescence Detector (NCD) from Agilent, designed for operation in Thermal Energy Analysis (TEA) mode. While this detector offers exceptional selectivity for nitrogen containing compounds, its application is currently limited to volatile nitrosamines due to its integration with gas chromatography (GC).

In the past, N-nitrosodiethanolamine (NDELA) was the primary nitrosamine of concern. However, advancements have identified a broader range of nitrosamines, from highly polar NDELA to less polar compounds like N-Methyl-N-nitroso-1-octadecylamine (NMODA). This expanded understanding necessitates sophisticated methods for detection and quantification.

Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care has implemented advanced GC-MS/MS methodologies combined with effective sample preparations. This approach efficiently removes a significant portion of the matrix, enabling precise measurements with highly sensitive limits of quantification (LOQs). This method is applicable across diverse cosmetic matrices, ensuring reliable nitrosamine detection in various product types.

For less polar nitrosamines, such as those associated with nail polishes - a product category that has garnered attention in recent discussions - we have developed LC-MS/MS method. These involve intricate sample preparation tailored to address the unique challenges of these formulations.

Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care continues to invest in cutting-edge technology to support you in meeting stringent regulatory requirements. Our expanded testing scope ensures robust monitoring of nitrosamines across diverse cosmetic products, contributing to consumer safety and industry compliance.

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