Cosmetics & Personal Care | Monthly bulletin | May 2024
EU tightens retinol rules: Eurofins C&PC guides you through the changes!
Today, retinol is widely used in the skin care industry. It is recognised for its anti-aging, anti-acne and cell renewal properties.
The European Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/996, adopted on the 3rd of April, 2024, introduces new measures for the marketing and use of retinol in cosmetic products in the European Union. This regulation aims to reinforce consumer safety by imposing specific restrictions and labelling requirements for products containing retinol.
One of the key points of the regulation is the limitation of maximum retinol concentrations. In fact, a new retinol threshold of 0.05% has been set in body lotions, while the limit in all other types of cosmetic products will be 0.3%. A gradual timeline has been put in place with the 1st of November 2025, being the deadline for placing a new product on the market and the 1st of May 2027 being the deadline for the withdrawal of non-compliant products.
As a result, companies in the cosmetics industry must adapt their formulations and labelling to comply with the new regulations.
Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care is committed to guiding and supporting you through these regulatory changes. We are here to offer you personalised support in the analysis of your formulas containing retinol.
Navigating the AGEC 2024 compostability requirements with Eurofins C&PC
As governments around the world step up their efforts to promote sustainability, it's crucial to understand and comply with regulations such as the 2024 compostability requirements of the Anti-Waste Law for a Circular Economy (AGEC).
This year, the AGEC introduced new “compostability” requirements aimed at reducing the environmental impact of waste. These new rules require households to separate organic “bio-waste” (i.e., food waste such as bark, skins, food scraps, expired food... and green garden waste such as grass clippings and dead leaves) from other waste and deposit it in designated compost bins. With home composting becoming the norm, companies are turning to the emerging compostable packaging market. However, according to these regulations, any packaging material claiming to be compostable must meet specific scientific criteria before making this claim.
Standard NF T81-500
The NF T81-500 standard defines the compostability criteria for plastic products specifically for home composting. This standard is used to assess the ability of plastics to biodegrade and be transformed into quality compost when subjected to home composting conditions.
As such, it plays a crucial role in the transition to a circular economy by encouraging the adoption of compostable plastic products. It helps align industrial practices with the objectives of reducing waste and promoting sustainable practices, in line with the AGEC guidelines.
Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care is here to help you meet the AGEC's standards for compostable packaging. From testing (to NF T81-500) to certification, we ensure that your products meet environmental mandates. We provide the assurance you need to successfully navigate complex regulatory principles. By embracing sustainability and prioritising environmental responsibility, you can position yourself for long-term success in an increasingly environmentally conscious world.
Promoting Ethical Alternatives & Product Safety: Washington State Bans Animal-Tested Cosmetics
On the 25th of March 2024, Washington State enacted HB 1097, banning the sale of newly animal-tested cosmetics effective the 1st of January 2025.
Derogations are provided for tests carried out abroad at the request of a regulatory authority; for products subject to U.S. federal regulations (21 U.S.C. Sec. 351 of the FD&C Act) concerning adulterated or altered products; and for cosmetic ingredients intended for a non-cosmetic product.
Exemptions are also provided for:
- Cosmetic products or ingredients tested on animals before the 1st of January 2025
- Cosmetics manufacturers who examine, evaluate or retain the results of animal testing on a cosmetic product.
These laws aim to stop animal testing for cosmetics and promote ethical alternatives to ensure product safety. While currently enacted at the state level, there is a push for federal legislation in the USA. This could influence China's cosmetics industry, where animal testing remains common for imported products.
The move towards banning cosmetic animal testing is gaining international momentum. Other US states are likely to follow Washington's lead, joining the dozen that have already banned animal testing.
Currently, 44 countries have enacted bans on animal testing for cosmetics. Since March 2013, the EU has led by example with a ban on cosmetics containing ingredients tested on animals, setting a precedent for ethical standards and alternative testing methods. The European Parliament is also aiming for a global ban, having passed a resolution in 2018 calling for a worldwide ban on animal testing in cosmetic products.
Since the beginning, Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care has been offering in vitro and ex vivo tests through its laboratory network worldwide to assess the safety and efficacy of finished products and ingredients, such as:
- Vegan alternatives for many of our in vitro protocols;
- Contribution to the implementation of OECD methods for endocrine disruptors;
- Numerous customised ex vivo protocols for very specific requirements (e.g., wound healing);
- …
Our expert team is prepared to help you select the optimal tests for your cosmetic projects. We emphasise quick compliance with regulatory standards, ensuring a smooth development process for your initiatives.
What’s next?
Webinar
Decoding Microplastics Regulations and Technical Insight: Analytical Solutions for Sustainable Practices
4th June
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Session 2 (05:00pm CET): https://attendee.gotowebinar.com/register/1912764742634270810?source=Monthly-Bulletin
