Seeding sustainability in cotton industry: exploring the Better Cotton Initiative


Sustainability is no longer a mere buzzword; it has become an imperative for businesses and individuals alike. The textile industry, in particular, has faced scrutiny for its environmental footprint, prompting a call for change. The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) emerged as one solution that looks after the well-being of farmers, integrity and traceability of cotton grown under its scheme and drive sustainable practices.
In this article, we will explore this scheme by understanding its background, core principles, certification processes, and answering a few common questions on the Better Cotton Independent Assessment.
What is Better Cotton Initiative (BCI)?
At its core, the Better Cotton Initiative aims to make global cotton production better for the people who produce it, better for the environment it grows in, and better for the sector's future. This holistic approach encompasses environmental, social, and economic sustainability, ensuring that the cotton industry remains viable while minimizing its ecological impact and uplifting the lives of cotton farmers and their communities.
How the Better Cotton Initiative works
BCI Better Cotton Initiative operates through a comprehensive and continuously evolving set of principles and criteria known as the Better Cotton Standard. These guidelines serve as a roadmap for sustainable cotton production on six guiding principle designed around environmental stewardship, social responsibility and viability:
- Principle 1: Management
- Principle 2: Natural resources
- Principle 3: Crop protection
- Principle 4: Fibre quality
- Principle 5: Decent work
- Principle 6: Sustainable livelihoods
Apart from the verification programmes, Better Cotton empowers cotton farmers and different stakeholders to deal with changes and challenges by capacity building, learning, funding and other initiatives.
The Better Cotton Initiative operates through a multi-stakeholder approach, engaging with farmers, retailers, brands, and civil society organizations. This collaborative model ensures that the principles and criteria are continuously refined and adapted to address emerging challenges and incorporate best practices.
Better Cotton Initiative programmes
To ensure the integrity and credibility of the Better Cotton Initiative, a robust certification process is in place, coupled with different programmes that engage stakeholders in various ways.
Farmer Licensing and Training:
Cotton farmers undergo comprehensive training on sustainable agricultural practices, labor standards, and environmental stewardship. Upon successful completion of the training, farmers are licensed to produce Better Cotton.
Third-Party Verification:
Licensed Better Cotton farmers are subject to regular third-party verification audits conducted by independent certification bodies. These audits evaluate compliance with the Better Cotton Principles and Criteria, ensuring that sustainable practices are being implemented on the ground.
Chain of Custody Certification:
As Better Cotton enters the supply chain, it is tracked and monitored through a rigorous chain of custody certification process. This ensures that Better Cotton is segregated from conventional cotton and maintains its integrity throughout the various stages of processing, manufacturing, and distribution.
Brand and Retailer Membership:
Brands and retailers can become members of the Better Cotton Initiative, committing to sourcing a specific percentage of their cotton from licensed Better Cotton farmers. Members are required to adhere to the Better Cotton Initiative's principles and contribute to the continuous improvement of the initiative with regular assessment by third-party on their cotton consumption.
Brief explanation of Better Cotton Independent Assessment
As mentioned in previous section, Brand and Retailer Members (BRM) are required to go through regular Independent Assessment by approved third-party body should they wish to use Better Cotton Product Marks and Advanced Claims. We have summarised several most-asked questions to facilitate your application consideration:
Q1: How often are you expected to have Better Cotton Independent Assessment?
Assessment frequency is tied to the sourcing volume of Better Cotton in a year. As this becomes a mandatory requirement for BCI BRMs using Better Cotton product marks and claims since January in 2024, in a nutshell, BRM with 20,000 MT or below of Better Cotton sourced is required every alternative year, while annual assessment is required for BRM with 20,000 MT or above.
Q2: What is mass balance being mentioned in the Independent Assessment concept?
In simple term, mass balance looks at an equal of inputs and outputs into a single system with precise tracking. When applying on Better Cotton, the Independent Assessment evaluates if the amount of Better Cotton sourced, which is recorded at BCI platform, equals to the amount of Better Cotton consumed by the BRM.
Should both ends deem to be on balance by Independent Assessment, BCI BRM is eligible to use relevant claims and marks to show compliance to consumers.
Q3: What is the process of Independent Assessment?
First of all, Independent Assessment is a desktop review process, no on-site audit is needed in the conformity assessment process.
Upon confirming the request, BRM will need to prepare all Better Cotton purchasing and manufacturing records and share with the appointed Third-party Verifier for verification, cross-checking and analysis.
A report will then be issued and if there are follow-up actions, both parties will take on additional effort to close and clear non-conformity, before the Third-party Verifier issues Conformity Declaration as attestation.
Q4: How long does the whole process take?
Length of process depends very much also on the sourcing volume. Normally, it takes 10 to 24 working days from start to end.
The Better Cotton Initiative showcases how united efforts and responsible measures reshape industries. Eurofins Assurance is an approved Third-party Verifier to deliver Better Cotton Chain of Custody and BRM Independent Assessment service, discover more at our service webpage.




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